Kathmandu - Friday 30th October, Andy.

Had a day of 'tourist' activities in Kathmandu today which I'd like to say was relaxing but in such a manic city that's not possible! It's now 9.50pm and the place is still alive with people in the street and music / live bands from the many bars in the Thamel.
I'm now at the point of looking forward to getting out of here and getting back home so it will probably be from there that I'll update again.

Back in Namche - Monday 26th October

Kieron and I arrived back in Namche mid afternoon after a fast decent (2 days) from base camp. There was no summit success this trip, the team made a high point and camp of approx 6100m on the first part of the ridge. Technical difficulties, poor snow conditions (at least 2 or 3 BIG avalanches from the face per day) and a bit of illness thrown in all hindered progress.
This line was much more technical than the photos would have had us believe and the time scale was probably too short but I guess that's all part of it!
On a plus side, we found out that the Japanese took 3 attempts before they summited so we've still got 2 more goes!!
Heading down to Lukla on Wednesday 28th, then on to Kathmandu for a few days R&R before the flight back.

Namche Bazer (3445m) - Thursday 8th October

It's been a relatively smooth journey to get here. Kathmandu was big, busy and noisy but amazing too. The flight to Lukla on the small plane went smoothly with great views of the mountains including Everest. From Lukla we trekked two days to Namche, arriving on the afternoon of the 6th. Kieron and I had a steady day yesterday, walked up to the Everest View Lodge to find not view of Everest due to the cloud and rain!! Still, it was good to stretch the legs and get a little higher for a few hours.
Today dawned a little brighter but it's raining again. We're starting the trek in to base camp today which will take another 5 days and take us a little over 5000m before dropping back down to Gokyo, the last town before the mountain.
Looking forward to getting to the mountain and seeing how the route looks. This is likely the last post until we get back down, so we'll catch you in 15 / 20 days!

Bags are Packed - Andy

It's Saturday morning, just, and the bags are packed for the trip. The amazing thing is that they're under weight too! Now there's only the drive down to Heathrow in the morning.

Feeling rough still from the chest problem I've had all week but there's another course of antibiotics to come with me so hopefully that should have got rid of it before the walk in, fingers crossed!

Next post will hopefully be from the airport before we board the plane.

Climbing Hardware Items - Kieron & Andy

Thanks to Eddy and Isacco at C.A.M.P. for supplying some of the new hardware items for the trip.

C.A.M.P. Hardware

Cassin Hardware

Outdoor Research Clothing - Andy

Got hold of some Outdoor Research clothing for the trip. Decided on a base layer, soft shell, insulation layering system for the mountain. Will take some hard shell for the trek in and as a back up but I'm hoping not to have to use it! The specialist glove range are the first choice for leading mountaineers and alpinists so I should have warm hands (for a change!).

Looking forward to using this kit in anger as I've been around it in its sample stages for what seems like an eternity. Performance updates when I get back!

The link below gives a bit of an insight into what OR is all about, along with some useful tips too:-

Outdoor Research - Video Links

Check out the OR website for more info on the products available:-

Outdoor Research UK

Mentor Jacket Alibi Jacket Alti Gloves

The trek in to the mountain, Day 1 to 4 - Kieron.

I thought it was worth jotting down a little about the trek in to the mountain for those (Andy included!) who haven't seen or been to this area of the world.

From Katmandu a 50 minute flight on these small, Twin Otter type aircraft, we will arrive at Lukla. The landing strip and Lukla is on a 30 degree angle and makes for a very exciting landing and take-off!! It's here that the journey really begins, with a 2 day trek to Namche Bazaar.

The plane at Lukla.

The second day will see us arrive at Namche Bazaar. To help with acclimatisation, we will spend 2 days here before heading on to Thamu.

View down to Namche Bazaar.

During our rest day in Namche we will plan to visit the settlement of Khumiuna, which is about 1000ft higher and will give us our first view of Ama Dablam, a peak I climbed back in 1996.

The view across to Ama Dablam.

Arriving in Thame, this is where we will spend our fourth night on the trail.

Approaching Thame.

Clean Water! - 9th September

Have been getting the majority of the kit together over the course of the last weekend and have most things sorted and the outstanding items are in hand! The one thing I'd forgotten all about until Kieron mentioned it was drinking water on the trek in to base camp. Luckily, a quick email to Ralph at Rosker Ltd and we had the solution - SteriPEN Journey!

This is a bit of kit which I've seen and heard a lot about but never actually used. Simplicity is the key here purifying the water using Ultraviolet light, killing viruses, bacteria and protozoa - including Giardia and Cryptosporidium.

Will update on the performance of the product when we get back so watch this space!

www.rosker.com/cgi-bin/range/range.pl?Steripen

New Buff's!! - 5th September

Big thanks to Lisa and Jimmy from Angling & Outdoors in Cockermouth for sorting Kieron and myself out with a Buff each for the trip. Kieron's is the cross of St Andrew and mine is the cross of St George.

Hopefully we'll get a shot of them on the summit!!

www.anglingandoutdoor.co.uk

Northumberland Climbing - 31st August - Andy

Probably not the ideal training for the trip but I'm working on the 'any exercise is good training' theory, so I headed out for Kyloe in the Woods for a steady bouldering session!

The rain was threatening as I parked up but managed to hold off the whole afternoon but the impending storm made for hot and humid climbing conditions.

Managed the 'warm up' problems before sore skin, aching fingers and mossie & midgies put and end to the session.

Problems:

Swan Wall Direct

Swan Wall

Rosé

Pink Gin

Red Rum

The Elf Direct

Bad Finger

Monty Python's Direct

Monty Python's area - Kyloe in the Wood

Silkbody Base Layers - Thursday 27th August

Thanks to Dave Morton from Silkbody Clothing for supplying base layers for the trip. I'm really looking forward to using them and seeing how they perform as it's a while since I've used any silk base layers.

Will give a full account when we get back from the trip.

www.silkbody.co.nz

More Training - Tuesday 12th August

This week has been a busy one with the KORS trade show over in Kendal. Kieron and Steve managed to get out on the hill on the Tuesday evening, braving the wet weather to get up onto the top of Blencathra via Sharp Edge. I took the soft option and headed to Kendal Wall with Brian Hall for a session on the lead wall.

Fitness Paranoia - Andy

After the Chamonix trip, the work load had lead to less training opportunities than I'd have liked. Managed to squeeze a trip to Climb Newcastle for a quick hours bouldering but more was required!
Took the situation in hand and got out for a Friday and Saturday trail run. It was painful but necessary and I'm now into the running zone again!

Chamonix - 25th July to 1st August

Chamonix was the venue for a week of 'training' ahead of the trip. The weather was settled, with blue skies every day making for some hot temperatures on the glaciers!

We didn't get as much done as we'd hoped but you can't beat being in the mountains!


Kieron and Ross 'chilling' below the Contamine-Negri route on the Triangle du Tacul.



Kieron setting the pace back to the Midi.



Shot across to the Triangle du Tacul.

A little about the objective.

Hungchi is a peak a little over 7000m situated in the Upper Khumbu region of Nepal, south of the Nepalese - Tibetan border a few miles from Gokyo and close to the well known peak of Cho Oyo.

The mountain has only had two prior ascents, both via the South West Ridge (the ridge line on the right of the photo) which is the chosen objective for the trip.

Approximate time on the mountain will be 10 days, so hopefully a good weather window!

More paperwork!

Another round of form filling and passport photo sorting but hopefully this should be it!

Thanks to all at Deuter!

A big thanks to all at Deuter for the generous supply of packs and sleeping bags for the trip. Hopefully we can do the kit justice!!

The count down is on!

There's only 7 weeks or so left before we head off on the trip. Will the fitness be up to speed by then?? Still lots to sort out in the way of kit and the paperwork but at least the flights were booked a good while ago.

More to follow............